Climbing Adventures in Canada: May 2010

Friday, May 21, 2010

Diamond Lake, OR - Mount Thielsen, West Ridge

Mt.Thielsen from the East with high winds whipping up snow on the ridge

As a continuation of the "Cascade Volcano Quest" this easy summer summit turned out to be an all out winter conditions festival in May. We had the mountain to ourselves but with 30+ mph winds, lots of fresh snow and a mid-week ascent I should think so. The climb took us about 8 hours round trip with about 10+ miles and 4000 feet covered for a great training day. We finally broke through the clouds after navigating in cloudy and foggy conditions up to the 8000' mark. We took the MSR Lightening snowshoes and they worked great for the whole trek. They are lightweight and have a secure "cookie cutter" vertical frame rail that provides amazing traction for alpine climbing, hard pack and steep terrain without the need for us to have to use crampons.

Westy has a few more days of snow before summer

Weather looks like crap but let's just see how far we can go...

Lots of white stuff but still having fun

Winds pick up and the ninja suit comes on

Getting serious 30mph plus gusts that almost knock us over

Still makin tracks

She finally shows herself

Hard pack and wind scoured

Time and alti check

Very sweet ridge line to trot up

Cool rime snow ghost formations on the conifers

Heading to the summit block

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Sisters, OR - North Sister Mountain

North Sister Mountain

(CLICK IMAGES FOR LARGER VIEW)

Returning from Mnt. Thielsen Chris and I stopped in again at the infamous Tumalo packing site. Warm showers and a quiet park allowed us to sort and pack gear for our overnight into the Sisters mountains. After wrapping up we grabbed some lunch and made our way to the town of Sisters. On the way there we noticed a fairly large forest fire near the Pole Creek area. We were hoping this wouldn't prevent us from driving to the trail head and fortunately it did not. It was surprising to see how much snow had melted in just a few days as the road was easily passable all the way to the Pole Creek Springs trail head. Just days earlier we were driving the same road in a blizzard and found snow patches most of the way up to a road blockage about 1 1/4 mile from the trail head.

Once we arrived we had planned to hike in about 2-3 miles, camp and use that as a base for our next two days. But for some reason Pope (CP) was feeling the pull of a comfy bed in the Westy and so we discussed blowing off the late evening approach and just doing the North and Middle Sister in a days push. I'm always keen on fast and light and with my need to train for longer days it all sounded great to me.

We ended up snow shoeing for most of the climb and CP let me know it was his birthday while we were on route. I don't have a good memory for that stuff so I had wished he warned me earlier and I could have prepared a little better with a summit cake and candles. The day was long and to be safe we ended up hauling in on the SE Ridge since the faces were showing avalanche activity. CP was somewhat tuckered out after getting close to the N summit - the result of too many house projects and a lack of mountain projects would be my guess. Making considerations for Middle Sis he offered to let me go solo and that we could reconvene later in the day. I was thinking as good as I felt it would probably be best to stay together and that there was always next time.

The way out seemed longer than the way in and in the last 1.5 miles I left CP for the Westy as I was out of water and wanted to brew up some tea and food for us. CP arrived almost an hour behind and not looking too well. I don't recall ever seeing him this messed up and was a bit concerned. Good thing he's a fire fighter and EMT as he knew what to do and how I could help him. The trip was fun, the views were stunning and happy B-day big guy! Next time you'll be just that much better in shape for the next hill.

Enjoy the scenery!!