When Megan broke her leg I promised that as soon as her leg was better to hike we would get out and do things before the summer was over and that if need be I would carry all her gear. Well she made me make good on that promise this weekend again...
We departed Portland around 8am on Saturday morning with the idea that we would get ourselves to Lunch Counter and then see how it goes. Somehow I just knew that Megan wouldn't be satisfied just half of the route - I'm getting to know this girl ;) Rolling into Trout Lake we stopped at the Ranger Station to pick up permits and get the latest schpeal from the rangers. We did find out that the road to Cold Springs was open all the way and that there was still so much snow on the mountain that the winter route was still very accessible so that was all good news. Megan ran into some of her Mazama friends heading in to do the Mazama Glacier route including the leader of her basics mountaineering class. After squeezing the Camry into a tricky spot we got changed and shouldered our packs. Mine actually didn't feel too bad even though I had a ton of gear and pretty much everything for Megan and I to eat, sleep, cook and climb with for the weekend. (My new Mountain Hardware South Col pack is the best fitting pack I have owned to date. Although it isn't the lightest, tipping the scale at 3lb 14oz, it carries very well and can hold 70L.) I reminded myself about the pace of the Tortuga that Michael and I plodded on my first Rainier summit and chugged along.
At first many parties were passing us but as the day wore on Megan and I just kept our pace and soon enough we had caught and or passed many of them nearing Lunch Counter. That ended up giving us a wonderful choice of camp sites and we did choose a premier luxurious sandy spot for our home. As evening fell we cooked up a great Shepard's pie and tuna combination and followed that with a tri-berry crumble dessert and some Licorice tea. We bedded down early with the plan to rise around 6am and make our way to the summit.
Megan was the first one up and out of the tent in the morning; I was dragging as I didn't sleep so well through the night. With the stove going she fixed us some tea and oats for breakfast. A beautiful site was the shadow that Adams was casting to the west during sunrise. It reached out and almost touched Mt St.Helens and reminded me about the native's story. It goes something like this, Mt Adams and Mt Hood competed for St Helens favor. Mt Adams of course won out but in anger Mt Hood smacked him in the head and that is why Mt Adams has such a flat top.
Most parties had already made their way to the south slope and we could see them ascending like ants. However, like the day before Megan and I made great time up the slope and passed most of them on our way to the south summit. As we crested Pikers Peak around 11,000 ft. we had a quick snack and continued our way to the true summit. the clouds were moving very fast over 11,000' and the wind had really picked up. I had to put on a wind shell and a hat as the temperatures and wind chill were quite frosty. When we finally made the summit, I congratulated Megan on her new high point and told her I was honored once again to be there with her.
Showing posts with label Washington. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Washington. Show all posts
Saturday, July 23, 2011
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Leavenworth, WA - Iconoclast
Having not completely finished this route and coming up short on partners I checked out the climbing board to see who might be free. Net result was James and I meeting up with a poster for a run at Icconoclast on Snow Creek Wall. Unfortunately on the approach I snapped a branch off of a fallen log while stepping over, sprained my thumb and put a hole in my leg that kept pumping blood. It took a while for the blood to finally stop but the sprain didn't go away so easily. I led a couple of pitches and swung leads with Charles. The 4th and 5th pitches were spectacular if not challenging with a semi-useless appendage. Its all good beta for the Hyperspace run coming in the near future.
Also mossy but a sweet traverse begins here and eventually leads to...
..this chicken-head covered face!
Friday, April 16, 2010
Banks Lake, WA - Northrup Canyon
Sarah and I spent a few days up in the Canadian Okanagan climbing at Skaha. Mostly single pitch cragging we were too lazy to pull out a camera and take pictures. On our return we had a bit more time and decided to make an early stop at Banks Lake for breakfast and then some climbing in Northrup Canyon. With Sarah wanting to get some more time on lead and placing gear she decided to do the SW Arete of Gibraltar rock. It is a bit grungy to start but she stuck with it and took us up in 3 pitches. Nice leads Babs!
Friday, December 11, 2009
George, WA - Ancient Lakes Ice Climbing
This stuff is good for a work out and the views aren't too bad either. Sarah's first time out to swing picks and she now knows the meaning of pumped once again.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
North Bend, WA - Exit 38 Ice
No one could really say this is the best ice climbing in our humble state but heck it is close to the city and once a year things seem to become more 'solid' as a cold snap appears in early December. This route just left of CYA is unnamed but for good reason I call it "Early Morning Meeting", WI3. At 7am I my CC partner and I are trudging up the path to the trestle around Exit 38. Looking at the formations we decide this one it "in". I lead (aka solo) the thing putting in stubbies that bottom out on the rock underneath. Falling is not an option unless a trip to the ER is in the schedule. A top out to slings above and we have a fun and challenging local route. Conditions vary wildly so take it all in par.
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Darrington, WA - Spring Mountain
With the threat of cooler wetter weather upon us, thoughts of squeaking in one more route was swirling in my head. I'd been up to check out a somewhat newer climbing area called Spring Mountain a few weeks prior and spotted what looked like a nice climb. Other Side of Tracks is a 5 pitch 5.10 of mixed nature although it is predominantly bolts; Camalots .4 - 2 does nicely and covers everything on this route.
My friend Sunil picked up a gig in Hong Kong so it would be a slim chance that I would get to see him in the near future to climb. I rung him and he was easy prey for an early meet at the PnR. Sarah was also on board as she is always ready to go and hit it with her endless appetite for stone.
The route is pleasant with an interesting overlap on pitch 1 and a spicy fun finish to that pitch. The money pitch is the 3rd and it keeps giving nice holds and smears. 3 of us finished up in under 4 hours and down in about 1 hr. Go give'er a run and enjoy the solitude.
Thanks Sunil and Sarah for getting out and enjoying a beautiful day doing what we love!
A little time to spend contemplating the beauty of this place, the flow of our lives and the constant state of change.



My friend Sunil picked up a gig in Hong Kong so it would be a slim chance that I would get to see him in the near future to climb. I rung him and he was easy prey for an early meet at the PnR. Sarah was also on board as she is always ready to go and hit it with her endless appetite for stone.
The route is pleasant with an interesting overlap on pitch 1 and a spicy fun finish to that pitch. The money pitch is the 3rd and it keeps giving nice holds and smears. 3 of us finished up in under 4 hours and down in about 1 hr. Go give'er a run and enjoy the solitude.
Thanks Sunil and Sarah for getting out and enjoying a beautiful day doing what we love!
A little time to spend contemplating the beauty of this place, the flow of our lives and the constant state of change.



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