Guye Peak, WA - Last Rock for the Year

The Improbable Traverse on Guye Peak has been described as one of the closest and most accessible alpine climbs in the vicinity of Seattle. With the days getting shorter and the air cooling we found ourselves with one more weekend of climbing weather in the PNW.

Located close to Interstate 90 in Snoqualmie Pass the mountain is one of the lower ones in the pass but casts a striking profile with a classic pyramid shape. The steep west face is the most appealing face of Guye Peak and has one or two pitches of high-quality climbing on clean rock that makes the doing all the pitches worthwhile. The approach is made via a steep scree field below the west face of the peak and that is where we started. The early pitches are a bit rotten at best but the traverse is airy and fully enjoyable nonetheless. The climb ends a bit prematurely after the ramp but the summit views and blocks make for good scrambling.

Dave loading his gear out of Big Red

Looking up the scree field to the west face

Improbable Traverse Route

Scree Monster

1st pitch done

Dave arrives at Lunch Ledge

This is the start of the classic section of the route

Mid way on the airy "Improbable" traverse

Hard to see but follow the rope line across the wall and you'll find me tucked in the corner

It's Tetly Tea Time and yes Helium filled cans do float away!

Reflection Pond near the summit

A great view of the ramp feature looking northwards

Index ,WA - Davis Holland Route

The best time to climb at Index is in the late summer and fall when the routes are dried out. The Davis-Holland route is located on the Upper Wall and is an Index classic going at 10c with about 3-6 pitches depending on how far one wants to climb into deteriorating rock. Michael and I enjoyed our day outing at Index with a bit of harder sport climbing earlier in the day and then a hike to the upper wall and a run on this fine trad line. I feel this is one of the best lines at Index but I would recommend the right variation to the start of the 3rd pitch.

Starting up the route

Coming up pitch 2 - looks like a pretty big wall

Good jamm'in

Cracked up - note Michael's silouette

Michael, the Town of Index and Mt. Barring in the background