Saturday, August 23, 2008

Snoqualmie Pass, WA - Mount Thompson

With the weather calling for a deteriorating pattern for midday on Sunday, I sent Michael a quick email Friday evening to give him a few options for what looked like the best day of the weekend. One of them was to go do Mount Thompson up in the Snoqualmie Pass region. A smallish 6500+ ft peak with a reasonable approach on the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) seemed like a doable car-to-car adventure.

I expected he would call early Saturday morning but when I didn't hear from him by 9am I figured he was off doing something else. So I had a leisurely time cleaning house, drinking coffee and catching up on some reading. Around 11:30am my phone rang and Michael was asking if I was ready to go? "Go where?", I replied. "Mount Thompson." "Ahhhh dude, it's 11:30am and no I am not really ready to go and we should have been on our way by now." Michael's reply was something like "how hard can it be, get packing we'll see you shortly."

So I sprang into action throwing this and that together and trying not to forget the essentials. I was thinking light weight since we would be running the trail; after all this did involve more running than climbing and with the route grade being 5.6 how hard could it really be??? Hydration bag, 3L of Gu2O, Gu packets, Mojo, head lamp for sure, light harness, running shoes, long top...hmmm was I missing anything? Ahh yes, sunscreen, bug juice....ok eat a bit and let's go. I got out of the house around 12:30pm with everything I thought I'd need. Going over it in my head as I drove to Michael's I realized that climbing shoes, a space blanket and water purification tablets would have also been handy. What about a helmet and climbing gear...too heavy and after all it was a ridge and some things had to stay behind.

Arriving at Michael's he seemed ready to go. I asked about a rope and he scoffed at the idea. "Too heavy" was his reply, and "how hard can this be anyhow?". I responded: "Dude, the descent requires rappels and I think we should at least have your 100' rope if anything." Learning from the last time we took the one hundred footer Michael reluctantly agreed to bring a full length 1/2 rope. He also threw in his harness and a belay device but for whatever reason neither one of us talked about gear as we were being weight conscious and both pictured the route a ridge with short steps of 5th class climbing with minimal risk of exposure. With our packs loaded we jumped in Michael's white beast and were off for the pass.

We arrived at the trail head, shouldered our packs, registered and were off around 2:10pm. At first the running felt terribly hard and I was sluggish. I figured I would stick with it since I have felt this way before and it passed (ie. Harvey Manning run). The fact that the trail starts off at a fairly consistent grade right from the parking lot might have been a contributing factor. After passing many parties the pace began to feel good and I remembered to start drinking early and often. The trail was nice for the first 2-3 miles but then became a bit rocky after we passed the Commonwealth Basin turn off. More consistent climbing took us past the Kendall Catwalk (1:45ish and ~5400 feet) - an impressive slice of trail that cuts through a rock wall and eventually to the saddle between Ridge and Gravel Lakes ~5280 feet. A bit further past the lakes we found the approach gully to Bumble Bee Notch and it took us about 2:15 to reach the Notch ~5400 feet.

A quick calculation on my part gave an estimated hour to the base of the route, 1.5 on the route and 1 down and back to the Notch. I did a sanity check with Michael and asked if he was confident that 4 hours was enough time to do the loop and be back on the PCT running; it was already 4:30ish and 8:30ish was sunset. He laughed at my question but I figured better to ask now than be sitting out there wishing I had. We dropped into the basin and quickly made our way across the talus and up towards the base of the route. I kept thinking I was hearing voices but convinced myself that no one else would be on the route at this time and that it must be echoes and animals. However, sure enough as we approached the base of the west ridge, we spotted a party above us. Michael quickly laid out the rope, we harnessed up and he set off up the ridge sans any gear. The climbing went quickly but both of us found that the rock was questionable, climbing in running shoes made things a bit more trickier and without any gear the leader had no option but not to fall. It was nice to have the rope since it made the 2nd climb much faster. We swapped leads for about 7-8 short pitches and passed the party we spotted earlier. We both found the route more exposed than we had thought and combined with the other factors later agreed that we took some unnecessary risks. If anything, climbing shoes would have added the greatest benefit and I also think 3 small cams would have also been helpful to mitigate risk. All-in-all the climb was fortunately uneventful and we summited in ~1 hour after we started climbing, ~6:20pm or so. I started the descent after a quick summit photo and we caught a second party after we down climbed past one rappel station. A quick "hi-bye" and we continued down climbing past the 3rd rappel station and were back at the Notch around 7pm - 1 hour faster than I worked out.

We hit the trail running and eventually had to turn on our head lamps. About 1.5 miles from the car I turned my ankle on a root OUCH! This is not uncommon for me so I prepared by having a compression sock, tape and Vitamin I. I took to taping up quickly and popping a few Ibu and we were back in motion. It hurt but I sucked it up and kept a respectable pace back to the car.

An awesome day of running ~19 miles and climbing ~1200' and our car-to-car time was 7 hrs. 30 min!

Michael also blogged this trip: Mt Thompson

Things I would have done differently:

(a) Leave Earlier - take advantage of the daylight. This would have allowed us to run out faster, provided an extra margin of safety and probably saved me from hitting that root in the dark.

(b) Bring water purification tabs - this was a dumb move and was precipitated by the last minute packing. Where was my "Critical Items" gear list? Need to post it on the back of the garage door!
This would have also let me pack-up less water instead of hauling 3L the whole day. I could have hauled 1.5L and refilled at the basin stream. A collapse-able bag would have been ideal to leave at the basin stream being purified while we climbed and retrieved on the way back. Saves time and is light weight.

(c) Bring more Gu and food - I didn't know this was going to be 19+ miles round trip. The guide book made it sound more like 14 miles. More food would have helped me on the way out to keep my energy up. I would have also eaten a better breakfast and food planned 2 days ahead had I known earlier that I was going. It was a good test to see what can be done without food prep.

(d) Don't underestimate 5th class climbing - I am glad we took a rope and I would take climbing shoes and a few pieces of gear if I went again. Not that the climbing was hard but the exposure is more than either one of us anticipated and it would have hurt badly had either one of us fallen. We also did not have helmets and albeit it was a ridge we were lucky with the loose shitty rock that nothing happened.

"I think I can, I think I can...." - pumping up the PCT


Michael leading the pack up the PCT



Iron saturated rock under Kendall Peak
(this pic shows the trail grade well)


Running the Kendall Catwalk

Michael cruising past the lakes


Mount Thompson from Bumble Bee Notch


The route - clockwise loop


Trail finding through the Heather in the basin


Topher coming up the late season snow field


Up the talus - bigger and steeper than it looks


Everybody loves surfing!


Michael leads out on the first pitch


The last pitch to the summit


Rainier in the distance from up high


Topher on the summit of Mnt Thompson


Saturday, August 16, 2008

Squamish, BC - Squamish Buttress

A last minute change of plans for a Squamish trip put me in the driver's seat and I had to scramble to do a quick fix on the Westy including an oil change etc. Mick decided to become a third wheel in the weekend's climbing plans and as much as I don't like climbing in 3's his experience as a guide made it easy and painless. In addition, James decided his bike should come along and so we had a packed van for the trip north. All in all it worked out great and Mick and I did our best to make it into a road trip sponsored by Borat.


Le Motley Crew

After a few stops and a 3.5 hour trek we finally made the Chief camp ground. We disbanded and I was left to bed down with my van. The morning came quick as did the camp ground "host" who was whacking on my window waaaaay too early to demand money. After a quick hello with Mike and Marin, Mick and I headed to the White Spot for terrible service and moderate quality food. Finally the three of us got our act together and were off to link Calculus Crack, Karen's Math, Memorial Crack and the Squamish Buttress. It was a nice day with us leading in blocks and for the most part. Calculus is a bush whack less 1 nice pitch. Karen's and Memorial are nice and then Squamish Buttress was a bit more of the same and we quickly linked pitches together. The only nice pitch was the 10c which Kathy had the pleasure of leading. To improve time spent on the pitches we climbed with 2 ropes and had the 2nd's simul-climb - sometimes on the same line. Day 2 I lead Seasoned in the Sun at the base of the Grand Wall and then was bagged due to little/no breakfast and a crappy dinner the night before.




Mick leading the only good pitch on Calculus Crack



Karen's Math a nice 10a flake


Memorial Crack



Our friend, your friend - the smiley Kathy Chung :)


P1 on Squamish Buttress


The money pitch - 10c finger with awesome gear



KC sending in the sun



Ceremonial head butt




Sun baked or half baked?

Saturday, August 9, 2008

Harvey Manning 50K - Tiger Mountain to Lake WA

Ok Ok so maybe this might be pushing it regarding climbing but heck with close to 7000 feet of elevation gain and with the crossing of 3 mountains I think it can qualify for a place in my climbing posts.

As some of you might know I started getting into trail running about a year or so ago as a result of hanging out with Scott Krell and Michael Cartwright. It may have been a result of dragging Scott on a climb and needed to keep up with those two on the approach and my desire for one day ascents in the mountains. Regardless, it has become something I enjoy very much and am now officially an "Ultra Marathoner" as I have been told by one elite runner...ehem Nicole. Thanks to the running dogs and cats for getting me out on Friday mornings at 6:00am to run Tiger and for all the other training runs. I have loved them all as much as I have hated them but this was a pay-off I hadn't really considered.

So after a week of rest I decided on August 7th that I was mentally fit to go run a 50 kilometer (31.5 mile) course that I had linked together and refer to as the Harvey Manning 50K. I had been fairly consistent with my running and the longest continuous trail run I had finished before this was the 6 Summits run of 5000 feet and 18 miles. So after some discussion with Michael regarding the logistics and talking to Nicole regarding my pre-run nutrition needs both offered to pace me on the course. Nicole said she would run with me on the Tiger portion and Michael committed to pacing me on the last 16 miles.

When I woke on Saturday morning it was about 5:30am, too early for what I wanted but I think the excitement of the day had me pumped to go. I actually did not feel too well physically and was if anything on the lower end of my physical energy. I had not been sleeping well and believe that I was under rested. I considered calling the crew and canceling but for whatever reason, I decided that I would at least give it a try. I ate fairly well the day before and my morning consisted of 2 bowls of whole grain cereal and a pb'nj on toast. After dropping off my van at the finish point, Nicole drove me to stash a drop bag at the Cougar Mountain West trail head. This, I would later determine, was too far along the route and it should have been at the Cougar East trail head instead. We then drove to Issaquah where Michael would meet us and shuttle us to the start at the Tiger Mountain Trail Head. At 10am on August 9th I headed off on to what would be my longest run to date.

We started off with a nice pace down the hill and alternated between walking and running the next few hilly sections. I was still feeling asleep to some extent and not quite with it. After 30 minutes of trail I hit my first pack of Goo with 2x the caffeine. OK now I was awake and after that kick start I never felt sleepy for the rest of the day.


Running on Tiger Mountain Trail

The Tiger Mountain section of the run went very consistently with only one close face plant after hooking a toe on a root on the TMT. I kept up with 5 minute drinks and 15/20 minute Goo and Shot Blok consumptions and with every input of carbs I felt my energy was very sustained. It wasn't until the long descent off the West side of Tiger that I felt anything in terms of effort. During our descent I rang Michael to inform him of our progress and he ran part way up the trail in good form to grab some pictures of us on within minutes of the cars. Once at the cars I changed shirt, shoes and reloaded water and Gu. It was about a 14 minute stop and shortly after we were crossing into the Sycamore neighborhood and on our way to Squak Mountain.

Nicole wanted to run a bit more so she joined us for a few miles up Squak. On the way there we saw a snake and she let out a shrill scream that could put most car alarms to shame. Apparently she is petrified of snakes, even harmless little grass snakes. I think she would get along well with Indiana Jones. The climb up Squak is a long one but we paced it along since Michael kept flipping me crap for running the hill. Eventually we topped out and started long the East Side Trail which makes its way down and then traverses the slope for a while before really flattening out. It was along here where the trail master himself almost ran into the bush and missed a critical turn. The other two quickly piled in behind me as I came to a quick stop and we all started laughing about the navigation error. Michael decided it was another Kodak moment to capture my mess up. After a few snapshots and they finished poking fun at me Nicole decided it was time to turn around and so we said our goodbyes and parted ways. Michael and I headed off up the trail and Nicole headed down. It only took a few minutes of running and a few key land marks for Michael to realize we were running backwards on the trail. Somehow during the initial foo bar we got all turned around and all of us headed off in the wrong direction. This meant that Nicole was carrying on and we were headed back! We quickly remedied that situation and straightened things out. With Michael and I back in the correct direction Squak seemed enjoyable and it was only when we were on the down hill portion that the skies opened up and it began to pour. The downhill section was the first time I felt some muscle fatigue and it would have been most advantageous to have placed my drop bag of food before the Cougar section at mile 21 instead of mile 26. That said, I did throw back a few more Shot Bloks and the climb up Cougar was quite enjoyable. As we crested the summit of the climb I picked up the pace on Shy Bear Trail and ran strong until the downhill. Once again the inner thighs screamed nooooo all the way down and I had to moderate my pace. Hitting the Red Town Trailhead meant digging into my food stash but I wasn't all that hungry. Michael tried to get me to eat but nothing sounded any better than shooting more Gu and Bloks. I worked back some of the Clam Chowder and a few chips but all in all liquid felt better. As we started off on the last 5 miles and down into Coal Creek Park I slowly came alive again. The food was hitting my muscles and I felt another burst of energy. The pace was moderate but the 5 miles went quickly and we found ourselves crossing Coal Creek Park in a short time. Unfortunately this is where things fell apart, not for me so much as for the course. Bellevue City correctly decided that the Parkway crossing was too dangerous since the traffic flows quickly and there is no cross walk. They replanted the old trail with ferns and rerouted the trail to run up to a set of traffic lights and down into the park from a different corner. We of course just set off on the original route and trampled right through the new plantings. With the rerouting of the course I lost about 15 minutes waiting for Michael to collect GPS way points of the new trails and ended up running in and out of a few myself before getting up to Coal Creek Parkway and taking that to the Lake Washington Trail.

As I ran down to Newcastle Beach Park on my own I felt a sense of accomplishment but was a bit sad that it was over. One nice thing was that Nicole had decided to show up and was waiting in the parking lot to congratulate me on my achievement. Well at least I had one person to cheer for me - thanks Nicole!

My splits were as follows:

Tiger Portion - 3:46
Aid Station #1 - 3:56 / 10.41
Squak Portion - 5:39 / 1:42
Cougar Portion - 6:44/ 1:05
Aid Station #2 - 6:55 / 11.09
Coal Creek Portion - 8:15 / 1:20 (lost 15+ min in reroute)

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Gateway, OR - Trout Creek

This place used to be referred to as Crack World and although it isn't that big it does hold a whole number of steep and relentless split pillars to climb. Some say it is a mini Indian Creek but for what it is worth you could climb out the whole area in one go.

After getting the ditch from KC I hooked up with Julie Brugger for an interesting weekend down in Oregon. The mornings were cold and I was still recovering from a rhino-virus so unfortunately I wasn't that strong. It was a long way to go for not feeling so well but the company was interesting and the crag was entertaining enough.

It takes about 1 hour or so to approach the crag from the camping area but the trail is obvious and well worn. Nice views can be had of Mt Hood and the Deschuttes River.


Crack World's Main Wall



A hard 11ish crack



Julie happy to get on Suzuki's Route



Stemming the open box



Hood and the canyon carved by the river