Sunday, April 22, 2007

Red Rocks, NV - Viva Las Vegas

The weekend planned for Red Rocks finally arrived. It started out on Thursday night at Dave's place sorting thru gear and making sure we had all we needed. Friday morning came early and Karen (Dave's gf) volunteered to drive us to the airport. We ended up leaving Dave's place a wee bit on the late side and arrived to a huge line. It was a good thing we used online check-in because we skipped thru to another line to hand off our baggage and head over to security. Another long line at security delayed us further but once we passed the metal detectors we were off in a sprint to reach the furthest gate in D concourse possible. Final call for boarding but we made it - Whew! What we didn't know was that one of our bags wouldn't make it onto the flight and our plans to climb that day would be significantly hampered. Once we arrived in Vegas we had to rearrange plans and instead spent the better part of the day dickering around buying food and supplies for the weekend. Finally we hit the rock and decided to check out Calico Basin - I hadn't been there before and the rock was quite aesthetic. We ran up a two pitch route called something like "Over the Hill to Grandma's House" which has a nice roof with two variations. Sent both options and they seemed about 9+ish or maybe a Canadian 10 at most. Dave needed to blow some rust off his gear placing and so he ran up the route to the left for practice.


Yours truly taking the lead on the right variation of the 'Grandma' roof


Night came quickly and due to the rapid growth and urban sprawl so near to the canyon, Vegas like festivities are now within minutes of the crags. Off we went to some local strip mall to eat at a place called Agave. Now I can't complain about the drinks because I had a couple of fine Mojitos and the food was pretty good but the scenery was un-silicone-believable; it was obvious we were in Vegas and the surreality confirmed that.


Although it seems odd even as I write it, our evening of entertainment ended by heading back to our tent at camp and crawling into our bags. I tried to illicit some response from Dave about the next day's itinerary but he didn't seem to care at the moment and so off we went to dreamland with no fixed plan for the morning. At 5:30am I was awake thinking we should get an early start if we are going back in Oak Creek Canyon and doing a bigger climb but Dave wasn't stirring. I slept a bit longer until the sun was higher and warming the tent ever slightly. Breakfast yielded way to conversation about itineraries and we decided that we would go for Eagle Dance on Eagle Wall even though the hour was getting late.


Dave ahead on the trail to Oak Creek Canyon with Mt. Wilson



Parking lot elevation (we'll go to over 6000' on the route later that day)

Parking lot departure time



Note the helicopter practising rescue work (red circle)

Looking up Oak Creek Canyon


Spring time in the desert gives way to blooming cactus

Find the climbers doing Johnny Vegas

Oak Creek Canyon approach is tough going with ankle wrecking boulders - is that foreshadowing??



Eagle Wall up above from the creek bed



So it was about at the point where this picture was taken that I hoped over a boulder and landed on another with uneven footing. Unfortunately the ankle Gods weren't with me and I rolled my ankle. Ouch! I heard and felt the pop and somehow knew this was not good. I was not happy, we made good time to this point ~1.5 hours, the weather was ideal, the climb was clear and I was feeling strong both mentally and physically. As I sat and debated my condition, my ankle and Dave's desire for a climbing weekend, I decided that I would suck it up and continue on. Slowly I got up, shouldered my pack and we continued at a more moderate pace up the canyon. My rationale being that we had plenty of time and could turn back if things got any worse.



The 2 large pines are sentries to the ramps that lead to the climb


Dave ahead on the final ramps to the base of the route (say it "root")

A view back towards the start of the canyon and the back side of Mt. Wilson

These are called "Wife's Fingers"



The route starts in the weakness right of the big mushroom block


We arrived at the base 30 minutes behind our 2 hour allotted approach time but not bad for having a 20 minute stop to deal with my ankle and the slower pace we adopted. As long as I kept moving I didn't feel that I would be hampered that much by the strain. Dave and I discussed the need to move as fast as possible and if we had to walk off we'd need to be doing 45 minute pitches or we'd risk losing light. As Dave lead off I noticed rap anchors about 100' up the wall to our left. This gave me hope that the route may have been retro bolted and equipped with rap stations. I mentioned this to Dave and as he reached the end of the long 200' pitch he confirmed that there was a nice set of bolts and rings. Since we only had one rope we would need to confirm the trend on the rest of the route.

Super Dave leads off on P1


Work them pieces in!


We continued on with wonderful climbing and I kept an eye on the time, pitch lengths and rap stations. So far so good - we could rap the route! Around the 3rd pitch were the route passes through the eagle formation we encountered a couple of raptors that had made their nest on a large ledge. They squawked and squealed and one eventually started dive bombing to scare us from their nest. I tried to keep a low profile as to not stress or disturb them. The next pitch from this nest area requires one's own Eagle Dance to get off the ledge since the hand holds are all but gone for the first 15' or so. We paused at the top of pitch 4 to enjoy some Fillet Mignon Fajitas that were wrapped up the night before while hanging from the anchors 6000' up above Vegas.





I lead the last short crack pitch with much pain. I believe that the pause for lunch caused my ankle to start stiffening and this was not so good. The next pitch was an aid pitch which on any other day I would have been happy to shuttle but I wasn't interested in standing in aiders/slings with a knackered ankle. So I handed the rack to Dave and told him to do his best impression of some French climbers - easy there Francios!



Dave becomes an A0 aid master


We reached our last pitch and I beckon to Dave that we need to start our descent since it is now 3pm and based on my mobility and the number of raps we should take advantage of the light. We were down by about 4:30 with no hitches on the raps and started our way back. Almost out of the canyon, I was joyed that we got the route in even on my crappy foot. Then just 1.5 miles from the car - agony! I roll my ankle again on a loose tennis ball sized rock. Excruciating pain up my leg and a scream that woke James Brown. I was down for the count and had no ability to weight bare on my foot. At first I thought I could crawl out but the terrain was rough and I kept getting cactus needles in my hands. Dave said he would piggy back me and I couldn't believe we could do it but for the next 1.5 miles we worked out a system. Dave did an amazing job of taking his time and being solid on the trail. He would take a rest by walking back the distance we travelled to fetch the pack each time until we arrived at the 1 mile marker from the car. We ditched both packs and decided to go all the way to the car at this point. Fortunately some other climbers caught up from behind us and saved Dave on the last 1/4 mile. Not that he needed it but I'm sure he appreciated it!


Final verdict is I tore my posterior tibial tendon and I am in rehab for about 4 weeks before I can get serious again.


Red Rock winds tear a skylight in our disposable tent - note the poles thru the roof!


Sunday, April 8, 2007

Vantage, WA - Day Trip Disaster


Spoke with Sunil and Ben (the Auzzie) and we decided we'd go for a day trip back out to Vantage since there was more business of pulling down and the weather looked good. We met at the park and ride and all piled into another climber's ride. As you can see, another crappy weather day only 2+ hours from Seattle. Rain, rain, rain....



Coming into the Coulee



The trail past Sunshine Wall






Great arete and crack routes


The day was entirely uneventful as usual. Ben and I headed off for one of the warm-ups on Jigsaw Wall, some 10b, while Sunil and Sarah warmed up on Human Jigsaw 10b. I counted off the routes as we walked on so that I could locate it relative to where we initially dropped our sacks. We settled on a line going over a roof and pulling mid way up a wall but little did we know it was an 11d with a tricky start. Inspecting it closer and coupled with the fact that the belay was on a narrow trail above another 30 foot drop, I elected to try and pre-clip the first bolt. The difficulty was getting to the thing. So Ben elected to give me a boost for one foot and I'd stem against the cliff with the other foot giving me additional height to clip the bolt. Unfortunately the boost came a bit early and I ended up ramming my head into the rock roof with a distinct klunk - like a coconut splitting open. The net results are as shown (is that a skull you can see?):



Checking out the impact zone





The results of a good boost




Meanwhile Sunil enjoys his warm-up



OK so if that wasn't enough for the day we head over to Give Me A Second, My Elvis is Pinched and Ben goes for a lead. He pulls the start with ease and with large clipping jugs in hand and only one bolt between him and the ground he casually comes off. This is not a route one should just calmly whip off above the first bolt as there are boulders with sharp teeth around the base and not a whole lot of options for not decking. Fortunately for Ben, not for me however, Ben lands on top of me and I catch him and break his fall before the deck or boulders get him. The impact of his one foot into my back and the other kicking me in the head just about finishes me off. I realize that I am not going to be feeling too well tomorrow. Ben however is fine and walks away clean.


But wait, its not over yet, the climbing gremlin out to get Ben is not finished, just poorly focused. Ben strikes off on a docile looking 10d and has Sarah belaying him. About half way up, the chap rips off a man sized block of rock which proceeds to flip him upside down as he falls with it in his hands. He hits the rock with the small of his back and has a nice bruise above his ass to show for it (what no pics!!). Sarah narrowly misses a trip to the ER as the block slides past with in feet of her.


Ben burning small insects and making an offering to the Gods for not killing him



Sunil working on the "Elvis" route and just to the side of the bolt that held Ben


Ben bringing it home on his 11c Flash


In an attempt to prove his day isn't totally jinxed Ben fires up Effortless and flashes the route in great style - congrats Ben.


Hans & Franz say its time to get pomped!




Friday, April 6, 2007

Exit 38, WA - A Friday Afternoon

Our Red Rocks trip is coming up and Dave has been nursing his elbow so it was time for him to take it for a test drive. Dave typically has Fridays off and I knew it was going to be sunny and warm so we booked off to the local Exit 38 highway climbing destination - sunny and about 20C (70F). We ticked off a bunch of short boulder like routes near the Hall Creek trestle and soon enough Dave said he wanted to go get some last turns in of the year up at the pass. He later admitted that there was also copious amounts of drinking to be had. I knew there couldn't be that much snow! So I hooked up with some other local "Stone Gardeners". Ben, Justin and Collin are all in their 1st year of climbing and beginning to explore the local goods. We did a bit on the local wall and it gave me a photo opportunity for Ben's lead on a Canadian 10. Cheers!

L-R: Colin, Ben & Brother Justin

Ben strikes out on what is listed as an "Open Project" in the guide. ~5.10a



Ahhh the bolt...

Eeee the clip...

Ohhh the hold...







Sunday, April 1, 2007

Vantage, WA - Rock Weekend

Kathy asked if I was interested in going to Vantage for the last weekend in March and I am glad she did. Four of us ended up packing into my van and heading down late on Friday night. The crew consisted of Kathy Tamanaha (KT), Kathy Chung (KC), Jim and myself. We had a quick stop in Ellensburg on the way thru to top up with burgers and beer.



Can I take your order sir?...Sir?....Sir?




Weather can be chancy this time of the year and it was nice to have the Westy as it was fairly windy and the
evenings brought in a chill. Jim and KT braved a tent setup while KC and I shared the van.

Saturday's climbing was mainly at the Upper Riverview Wall with plenty of on sights on the moderate 10's. A nice '10 by Leland W. was adventurous with heel and toe hooks affording a clean ascent. Later in the day we hiked over to Jigsaw Wall and played on some 11's. The routes were nice in quality but it was a busy place. Mick was spotted working his Red M&M's and Senile was also out cranking in fine style. I have a few more routes to go after in the Jigsaw area - for a return trip. Sunday started with a fine run with KC thru the lower basin in and around the Fugs Falls area. We ended up scrambling the lower cliffs below Sunshine Wall as we planned to come up and over the mesa back to camp. I can see she is a butt kicker on the trails and hope to introduce her to Rattlesnake Ridge as I think it will put a week long perma-smile on her face. The climbing consisted of an easy day playing at the Kotick Wall and some of the new routes there.


The trip consisted of awesome food prepared by KC, KT and Jim. I can't claim my breakfast was tops as I forgot the main stay of that meal. Next time???



KT consults the guide for directions to the Gullies while KC looks on impatiently.














Wonder if she noticed the new signs???





Upper RiverView Wall - note the running trail below in basin



Beta for KC - does she even need it?


Every trip needs a good butt shot



This chick walks thru the crux with ease








Captain Sterling get's some lovins for a good belay











The gang approaches Kotick Wall