Sunday, April 8, 2007

Vantage, WA - Day Trip Disaster


Spoke with Sunil and Ben (the Auzzie) and we decided we'd go for a day trip back out to Vantage since there was more business of pulling down and the weather looked good. We met at the park and ride and all piled into another climber's ride. As you can see, another crappy weather day only 2+ hours from Seattle. Rain, rain, rain....



Coming into the Coulee



The trail past Sunshine Wall






Great arete and crack routes


The day was entirely uneventful as usual. Ben and I headed off for one of the warm-ups on Jigsaw Wall, some 10b, while Sunil and Sarah warmed up on Human Jigsaw 10b. I counted off the routes as we walked on so that I could locate it relative to where we initially dropped our sacks. We settled on a line going over a roof and pulling mid way up a wall but little did we know it was an 11d with a tricky start. Inspecting it closer and coupled with the fact that the belay was on a narrow trail above another 30 foot drop, I elected to try and pre-clip the first bolt. The difficulty was getting to the thing. So Ben elected to give me a boost for one foot and I'd stem against the cliff with the other foot giving me additional height to clip the bolt. Unfortunately the boost came a bit early and I ended up ramming my head into the rock roof with a distinct klunk - like a coconut splitting open. The net results are as shown (is that a skull you can see?):



Checking out the impact zone





The results of a good boost




Meanwhile Sunil enjoys his warm-up



OK so if that wasn't enough for the day we head over to Give Me A Second, My Elvis is Pinched and Ben goes for a lead. He pulls the start with ease and with large clipping jugs in hand and only one bolt between him and the ground he casually comes off. This is not a route one should just calmly whip off above the first bolt as there are boulders with sharp teeth around the base and not a whole lot of options for not decking. Fortunately for Ben, not for me however, Ben lands on top of me and I catch him and break his fall before the deck or boulders get him. The impact of his one foot into my back and the other kicking me in the head just about finishes me off. I realize that I am not going to be feeling too well tomorrow. Ben however is fine and walks away clean.


But wait, its not over yet, the climbing gremlin out to get Ben is not finished, just poorly focused. Ben strikes off on a docile looking 10d and has Sarah belaying him. About half way up, the chap rips off a man sized block of rock which proceeds to flip him upside down as he falls with it in his hands. He hits the rock with the small of his back and has a nice bruise above his ass to show for it (what no pics!!). Sarah narrowly misses a trip to the ER as the block slides past with in feet of her.


Ben burning small insects and making an offering to the Gods for not killing him



Sunil working on the "Elvis" route and just to the side of the bolt that held Ben


Ben bringing it home on his 11c Flash


In an attempt to prove his day isn't totally jinxed Ben fires up Effortless and flashes the route in great style - congrats Ben.


Hans & Franz say its time to get pomped!




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