Squamish, BC - Squamish Buttress

A last minute change of plans for a Squamish trip put me in the driver's seat and I had to scramble to do a quick fix on the Westy including an oil change etc. Mick decided to become a third wheel in the weekend's climbing plans and as much as I don't like climbing in 3's his experience as a guide made it easy and painless. In addition, James decided his bike should come along and so we had a packed van for the trip north. All in all it worked out great and Mick and I did our best to make it into a road trip sponsored by Borat.

Le Motley Crew

After a few stops and a 3.5 hour trek we finally made the Chief camp ground. We disbanded and I was left to bed down with my van. The morning came quick as did the camp ground "host" who was whacking on my window waaaaay too early to demand money. After a quick hello with Mike and Marin, Mick and I headed to the White Spot for terrible service and moderate quality food. Finally the three of us got our act together and were off to link Calculus Crack, Karen's Math, Memorial Crack and the Squamish Buttress. It was a nice day with us leading in blocks and for the most part. Calculus is a bush whack less 1 nice pitch. Karen's and Memorial are nice and then Squamish Buttress was a bit more of the same and we quickly linked pitches together. The only nice pitch was the 10c which Kathy had the pleasure of leading. To improve time spent on the pitches we climbed with 2 ropes and had the 2nd's simul-climb - sometimes on the same line. Day 2 I lead Seasoned in the Sun at the base of the Grand Wall and then was bagged due to little/no breakfast and a crappy dinner the night before.

Mick leading the only good pitch on Calculus Crack

Karen's Math a nice 10a flake

Memorial Crack

Our friend, your friend - the smiley Kathy Chung :)

P1 on Squamish Buttress

The money pitch - 10c finger with awesome gear

KC sending in the sun

Ceremonial head butt

Sun baked or half baked?