Leavenworth, WA - Outer Space

The plan had us heading for Mazama for Bryan's guide book release party but the weather didn't look too good so we decided to head to Leavenworth instead - sorry Bryan maybe next guide book! This would be KC's and my first trip together and I wasn't sure how it would go but let's just say that we had a fantastic weekend and she is one awesome Westy mate. Thanks again KC, you rock!

KC had asked me a few times about doing Outer Space, she had been on one bigger multipitch route before but hadn't placed gear yet. She was ambitious and really wanted to do this route so I was happy to climb it with her since it is such a classic. This would be my 3rd or 4th time on this route so I felt comfortable enough with the area and we planned to leave early and have a fun day. KC knocked me out of bed and was nice enough to get some good strong brew going. We organized our packs, discussed gear options, food, water and weather conditions. Around 8ish we were off in a bunch on the Snow Lakes trail. A quick hour covered the 1.5 miles and 1500 feet or so of approach. The only area that was a bit rugged was the climber's trail up to the wall since last winter's heavy wind storm knocked so many trees over and the trail has not been cleaned. We landed at the base of the route with no one around - what luck that on a fine spring day no one was ahead of us on this classic???

Note: I got the links to the pictures to work and click on them for larger images.

Prepping at the Canadian Locker Box

All spunky and ready to go!

Snow Creek Wall from part way up the trail

Outer Space Route

Snow Creek Wall - Outer Space goes up the left side

Crossing Snow Creek on the final approach

Mrs. Goat and her Kid

The next generation of back pack strap chewer

Just like Eric Hirst mentions in his write up, Mrs.Goat showed up on time and was accompanied by her prodigy. I kindly asked her not to chew the straps on our packs but as you can see her response wasn't too agreeable.

Her response to my request (click the image for clarity)

As our luck ran out some other climbers showed up and of course were vying for the same route. With not a regard for mountain etiquette they suited up and started off ahead of us. I quickly told KC that I was going to do a 200 meter dash and as the rope came tight she should just start climbing. The plan worked out seamlessly and I took a line slightly to the right of the other party and beat them to 2 Tree Ledge. KC quickly followed and as she gained the ledge asked me what just happened?!? A quick explanation and she got it - save the delays and falling rocks we were in the lead.

So on to the business. The first pitch is the classic 5.9 traverse and I always enjoy the step thru to the left leaning traverse. I made sure I yelled down to KC to ignore the stuck Alien before the traverse so she wouldn't spend all day fiddling with it. I loved the pitch as usual and let out a howl as I got across because it's such a nice ride. KC seemed to enjoy it too but for the first time it is a bit airy and I'm sure she felt the exposure. Nonetheless, she was a smiley face at the end of the pitch. On to a quick crack and across the face with the smaller chicken heads that are an indication of the joy soon to come; then to the 5.8ish pedestal with the belay on top that puts you on the shield proper.

Riding the classic 5.9 traverse pitch

Looking down at 2 Tree Ledge and KC on the Traverse

KC coming up to the Pedestal Belay on P4

The next pitch is the wonderful long crack and face peppered with holds leading to Liberty ledge. This is a place where many a dubbie has been burned down I am sure since the ledge is made for sitting and gazing in utmost comfort. The final pitch starts with a bit of a sting but creative stemming and a little lay back off a finger crack dispenses with it quickly. Then another 180 feet of heaven sent crack and cookies to the top.

Looking down from 1/2 way up the P5 crack

Looking up the last 1/2 of P5 with Liberty Ledge above

KC starting out on the P5 crack - it's almost a full rope length

KC getting a little closer in the sea of face cookies

The descent isn't bad but it isn't that great either. KC wasn't feeling too well as she had a nasty stitch/cramp in her side. So we took our time going down and moved carefully. After our first rap, KC went on ahead while I was coiling the rope. There was much 4th class down climbing in combination with the rappels in this area and KC had begun to crab down a 70 degree slab with moss on it. All of a sudden I heard a scream, one filled with utter fear and pending doom, I looked up and saw her sliding on her back towards a small 2 foot wide ledge with a precipitous drop behind it, the kind no one wants to go over. I stood there feeling helpless and my ears started to ring and my heart started to pound as I watched her sliding for about 15 feet towards the ledge. I yelled her name as if I was throwing her a rope and in those fractions of a second I pulled on her with my gaze thinking I could slow her descent. I looked at her landing and thought to myself that if she lays flat against the rock and keeps her knees loose she'll absorb the energy and won't flip over the ledge. And as if she read my mind, she did just that. She came to a stop and I heard a little whimper which I'm not sure if it came from her or me. I raced down the other side of the slab being careful to avoid a repeat performance, scuffled across the ledge and gave her a great big hug saying "thank you for not dying, thank you so much for stopping on that ledge". For the remainder of the way down I made sure she stayed focused.

Say goodbye to Mrs. Goat!

Except for our descent episode the day was phenomenal and Kathy did great for her first big outing. We hiked out and both felt the need for hydration, food and a nap. So we departed from the parking lot and found a place to catch some zzzz's. It was a great idea and afterwards we warmed up some extra Thai food from the night before and talked about seeing a movie. It was nice that we were in synch with the activities we wanted to do. The one movie that was playing was not of interest so we ended up at Starbuck's sipping, reading and people watching.

The next day we set out to find Dog Dome and had a bunch of bush whacking to undertake just to get there. The landowner was a very nice man and let us cut through his property. Unfortunately, Dog Dome is over grown with moss due to the lack of traffic. We ended up getting one route in, Canine Capers, which is a 3 star 10b and which has very sporty spacing between bolts. I liked it and found it worthy of its rating. With a bit of clean up I think the other routes would be just as great but until access is improved I think it may not be soon.

We whacked our way back and I gave KC a gear placement clinic on Mountaineers Dome for the afternoon. We searched out Gibson's Crack for her to lead but had a hard time finding it; the guide said it was west of the Dome when we discovered it is really to the east.

KC was a treat on the way home and sorted out and organized my van which was really nice of her. Great weekend and we'll definitely do it again.